Clearly I am not cut out for running sew-alongs. I can, however, participate in them. Which brings me to my first Historical Sew Monthly post of 2016 - the aptly-named Procrastination Challenge! (This ties into my apology, because my focus for this challenge is 18th Century foundation garments.)
|So far, so good.|
|Zippered plastic bags - especially those with hooks - feature prominently in my sewing room organization system.|
|Another zippered plastic bag in a conveniently circular shape holds my collection of reed boning.|
I inserted a piece of 1/4" reed boning between the layers of coutil and nudged it up against the CF basting stitches, then began stitching right alongside the other edge:
|I'm using a spaced backstitch, which is one of my favorite stitches to use. I decided to go with off-white thread for contrast - totally period.|
This will be slow going, I know. But I think I'll be happier with the finished product than if I were to sew all of those boning channels by machine. And with the bone inserted as I'm sewing, I know that the channels will be the same width and the bones will fit snugly.
Hand sewing hurts my left hand after a while, so I can't work on these continuously. I have been very active in the meantime, though!
|Ignore the mock-stays. They will only ever be worn by my dress form, Anna.|
The Challenge: Procrastination
Material: Linen? Burn test was inconclusive. Also, 1/2" reed boning from corsetmaking.com
Pattern: Panier-Along tutorial by The Dreamstress
Notions: Cotton twill tape, thread
How historically accurate is it? Pattern-wise, very. Materials-wise, mostly. I'm calling the fabric I used linen even though it suspiciously doesn't wrinkle. Construction-wise, I cheated and sewed it entirely by machine. So kinda? Overall I'd say 80%.
Hours to complete: Not including the overnight soaking of the reed boning, I would say three or four? It went super fast.
First worn: Just for fun so far. I have an event in March where they will be first worn.
Total cost: I believe I paid $1/yard for the fabric from the bargain table at the Costume Design Center, and I certainly used less than a yard. The reed boning is $25/coil, which is approximately 90 feet. I used 12 feet, so approximately $3.33 worth. Thread and twill tape were in my stash, so total cost is around $4.00
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Next up is my fun floral petticoat! This was quite a win, because not only do I have a finally finished project, but I was also able to reclaim these pins from it:
|My poor abandoned pins!|
But! Now that I have pocket hoops over which to wear such a petticoat, I decided it was high time I finished the damn thing! :D
First I liberated the poor trapped pins by stitching down the sides of the pocket slits and sewing down the bias tape casing:
The shape of this petticoat is different from the first one I made, with the cut-out corners of the fitted sheet meeting at the top sides.
The lower edge of the cut-out side is what I covered with bias tape casings:
And when it was done, the drawstrings got drawn up to pull in the excess over the pocket hoops:
It's not exactly how the petticoat on the American Duchess post was constructed, but I thought it was a creative use of a fitted sheet.
I marked the hem by finding the highest point on one of the sides:
|Yes, it had already been hemmed once, but that was back when I didn't know what I was doing.|
|Since I had clearly made it far too long for an underpetticoat.|
So I measured up 7" from the hem of my petticoat:
Pinned and gathered and stitched the ruffle in place, and voila! A finished underpetticoat:
The Challenge: Procrastination
Material: Old cotton bedsheet, cotton muslin scraps
Pattern: Mostly made-up by me, but with some construction tips from American Duchess
Notions: Cotton twill tape, cotton bias tape, cotton cord, thread
How historically accurate is it? Pattern-wise, the inspiration is an extant piece at the Met, so very. Execution-wise, I kind of took the idea and ran with it, so somewhat. Materials-wise, I used all cotton fabrics and notions, although the pattern of the bedsheet is probably not terribly accurate for the 18th Century. I'm giving it a pass since it's an undergarment. Construction-wise, it's entirely machine-sewn. Overall, I'm giving it 60%.
Hours to complete: I have no idea how long I worked on it three years ago, but finishing it went pretty quickly. The ruffle probably added the most time. Probably 5-6 hours total.
First worn: Same as the pocket hoops.
Total cost: Entirely free (the old bedsheet), stash (twill tape, bias tape, cord), and scraps from previous projects (ruffle), so nothing! :D
I will share all the details of the stays once they are finished. It may not be before the end of this month, though.