When I last posted about my striped bonnet in the works, I had it all cut out and the fashion fabric pieces were stay-stitched to the buckram interfacing. My next task was to sew the crown together and line the brim. I then needed to bind the edge of the brim in a decorative manner before attaching it to the crown and adding the crown lining. I had a three small lengths of cream satin ribbon to work with, and I set one piece aside to go around the base of the crown, and another for future trim. This left me with a piece that was long enough to go around the front of the brim, with some extra. I wanted a smooth fit with some visual interest, so I marked off 1/4" tucks every two inches and stitched them by hand just in the middle of the ribbon:
This left the edges free so I could take in more length on the inside curve of the ribbon, to make it lay smoothly:
I used my nifty little mini-iron to press the pleats flat:
Then I sewed all those tiny pleats down by hand. It was a long and tedious process, and several times throughout I questioned whether I would like the finished effect, but overall I'm happy with it. Next I attached the brim and tried it on my trusty styrofoam head.
Brian the Engineer suggested I line it with cardboard. So I raided the recycling bin.
I used the pattern piece I had traced when I made my buckram mockup, and cut 5/8" in from the edges all around to account for the seam allowance.
Once I got the insert in the crown I had to shave down some of the edges to get it to fit properly.
Next, the lining got pinned in place and sewn in by hand:
I played around a bit with the remaining ribbon, and decided on a simple bow in the back:
Brian suggested I fold the ribbon in half to go around the base of the crown, and this turned out to look much better.
A sandwich of iron-on interfacing works well for stabilizing buckram for bonnet crowns. In a workshop that I went to we fused interfacing to both sides of the buckram and then sewed around it--works really well! The bonnet you made is delightful :)
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Thanks, I'll have to try that!
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