Floral Petticoat for Side Hoops

In 2016 I finally finished this petticoat that I had started 4 years earlier...


This was quite a win, because not only do I have a finally finished project, but I was also able to reclaim these pins from it:

My poor abandoned pins!

A long time ago (2012) in what feels like a galaxy far, far away (Michigan) I made my first 18th Century petticoat from an old fitted sheet.  I even posted a tutorial on it, whether or not there was ever a need for such a thing.  Shortly after this, I saw what I considered to be a very cool thing on the American Duchess blog:  a drawstring-sided petticoat!  Well, it just so happened that I had another old fitted sheet, and I decided to make my own drawstring-sided petticoat for wearing over pocket hoops.  I started it, and got as far as pinning the casing on one side (see above) before abandoning it.  And there it has languished ever since.

But!  Now that I have pocket hoops over which to wear such a petticoat, I decided it was high time I finished the damn thing!  :D

First I liberated the poor trapped pins by stitching down the sides of the pocket slits and sewing down the bias tape casing:


The shape of this petticoat is different from the first one I made, with the cut-out corners of the fitted sheet meeting at the top sides. 

 

The lower edge of the cut-out side is what I covered with bias tape casings:



And when it was done, the drawstrings got drawn up to pull in the excess over the pocket hoops:



It's not exactly how the petticoat on the American Duchess post was constructed, but I thought it was a creative use of a fitted sheet.

I marked the hem by finding the highest point on one of the sides:

Yes, it had already been hemmed once, but that was back when I didn't know what I was doing.

And marked 5" up from the floor all the way around:

Since I had clearly made it far too long for an underpetticoat.

After I hemmed it, I still felt that something was lacking.  I decided to add a ruffle around the hem, to help outer petticoats and gown skirts hang properly and not fold inward at the bottom.  I used dyed blue cotton muslin leftover from making my wedding dress to make a ruffle.  I used The Dreamstress's method of cord gathering, just as I had for my other petticoat.  I ended up with a 7" ruffle: 


So I measured up 7" from the hem of my petticoat:


Pinned and gathered and stitched the ruffle in place, and voila!  A finished underpetticoat:  



The Challenge:  Procrastination

Material:  Old cotton bedsheet, cotton muslin scraps

Pattern:  Mostly made-up by me, but with some construction tips from American Duchess

Year:  1760-70

Notions:  Cotton twill tape, cotton bias tape, cotton cord, thread

How historically accurate is it?  Pattern-wise, the inspiration is an extant piece at the Met, so very.  Execution-wise, I kind of took the idea and ran with it, so somewhat.  Materials-wise, I used all cotton fabrics and notions, although the pattern of the bedsheet is probably not terribly accurate for the 18th Century.  I'm giving it a pass since it's an undergarment.  Construction-wise, it's entirely machine-sewn.  Overall, I'm giving it 60%.

Hours to complete:  I have no idea how long I worked on it three years ago, but finishing it went pretty quickly.  The ruffle probably added the most time.  Probably 5-6 hours total. 

First worn:  Same as the pocket hoops.

Total cost:  Entirely free (the old bedsheet), stash (twill tape, bias tape, cord), and scraps from previous projects (ruffle), so nothing!  :D 

I will share all the details of the stays once they are finished.  It may not be before the end of this month, though.  

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