Decorated Buttons - A Small Tutorial

While working on my Blue Wool Spencer, I played around with decorating a couple of fabric-covered buttons with embroidery floss, to see how I would like the look.  I have a small collection of button molds in different sizes, all of which I have purchased from Burnley & Trowbridge over the last couple of years for various projects.  I have intentionally bought more than I needed each time, so I have extras on hand should the need arise. 

I really enjoy making fabric-covered buttons.  I followed all of the usual steps, but before I could actually make the buttons, I needed to add the design to the fabric. 

I started by tracing circles onto a scrap of muslin.  For the sizes I usually work with, I want a circle at least a 1/4" larger than my button mold, all the way around.  I used two corks I happened to have for my circle templates: 

I cut out the circles from both the muslin and the wool outer fabric together, then laid the button mold in the center of the wool, on the right side: 

I marked the center point and four equidistant outside points with a fabric marker:

This would help me keep the design inside the area which would cover the top of the button.  These dots also helped me to keep the design centered and symmetrical.  I started with a knot in the center:

I used embroidery floss that is close in color to the soutache braid trim on the Spencer, and attempted to mimic the pattern of the braid itself using a looping frog design.

Instead of actually embroidering, I chose to applique the design with regular sewing thread in a close color match:

When I got to the last loop of the design, I cut my embroidery floss, leaving enough excess to thread an embroidery needle:

And pulled the end through the fabric to the wrong side of the button cover, to complete the design.

After I finished stitching this final loop in place,

I used my sewing thread to stitch down the tail on the back side:

Once it was tacked down, I trimmed off the end to make it neater:

Then I placed the muslin circle over the back side of the wool, and made up the button:

I didn't take pictures of the process, but Burnley & Trowbridge have an excellent photo-tutorial on their Facebook page. 

I also made a larger button using a darker wool base and a more complex design:

I was considering using this as a decorative element on the front of the Spencer, and I still might.  But for now I have only made one of these.  I made three total light blue wool buttons, and they are all functional. 

Two small ones fasten the sleeve bands, and a larger one (the same size as the darker blue button above) closes the waistband tab. 

Costume Design Center Open House

Friday, October 25 was this year's annual open house at the Colonial Williamsburg Costume Design Center, where I work.  From 9:00-4:00 we were open to the public, completely free of charge.  We had dressed all of our mannequins in costumes produced by the CDC, and set up displays of accessories and special projects all over the building.  My job for the day was to demonstrate handmade buttonholes and covered buttons.  I'll blog about my part of it soon, but for now here are all the pictures I took on my break!

Caution:  There are a LOT of pictures!