Thursday, July 14, 2016

The Star-Spangled 40s Dress

For my first 1940s style summer sewing project, I chose this flowy rayon fabric in navy blue with dancing stars that I found on the bargain table at JoAnn's.  It was too cute to pass up, and of course there was only a yard and a half left on the bolt.  45" wide.  I hunted through my patterns to find one that would use such a small amount of fabric, and - not surprisingly - didn't find one.  But I settled on this adorable halter style, and ended up squeaking it out by shortening the hem about four inches.    


I had originally planned to supplement my limited yardage with some solid red polyester lining fabric I had, and my thought was to use the red for the midriff pieces:


I'm sure this would have worked fine, but as it turns out I was able to get all of the pattern pieces cut out from the starry fabric!  I liked this much better, as now I wouldn't have to worry about the side zipper being obvious as the seam changed from navy to red and back to navy again.

The front and back skirt use the same pattern piece, cut four times.  Therefore I could not lay all the pieces out and cut them at the same time, which I always try to do.  So first I laid out the halter piece and the skirt front (placing it on the fold to eliminate the center front seam - just a design choice) and measuring how much total length the skirt piece took up.


I only had 48", so I divided that by two to get the length of the skirt I would be able to cut from each end:


I then marked that length of skirt and measured up from the bottom that same amount all the way around to make it even.


Then after I cut out those two pieces, I flipped the skirt pattern piece around and laid it on the far corner of the remaining yardage.  I cut it out following the same hem line, and ended up with a skirt skimming just above knee-length.  I was able to get the remaining pattern pieces cut from the small scrap that was left, even keeping everything on-grain!  I was quite thrilled.

Now the fitting part.  This was a little tricky because of the side zipper, but fortunately I had my mom to help me.  (This is why we make a muslin first, folks!  Must remember that, even in my modern sewing.)  I had needed to add to the seam allowances of the bodice pieces as I was cutting everything out, because my pattern envelope only went up to size 12, and I am currently at a size 14.  Grrrr.  Then when I tried my half-finished bodice on, I found it much too big in the bust and slightly too small still in the waist.  Grrrrr grrrrrr grrrrrrrrrrrrr.

I made the necessary adjustments, and when I was still having issues with the underarm portion of the bodice gapping away from me, Mom suggested I make a channel on the inside of the lining and add some narrow elastic to bring in the extra ease.  This worked beautifully.  I actually used the seam allowance as my channel, understitching it to the lining in the same step!

I also shortened the halter straps at the neck by about an inch, and used an invisible zipper in the side seam because that's the only kind of zipper that doesn't make me want to rip my hair out while sewing it.


Finally it was done!  I wore the dress - accessorized with a fabulous red hat and adorable 1940s-inspired shoes - to my hometown's annual July Jubilee celebration last Saturday.  My dad was kind enough to take these photos of me after we got back to my parents' house out in the country.


I wish now that I had taken some photos of the parade and town events, but I was too busy catching parade candy and re-living my childhood to bother with trying to record any of it.



July Jubilee is always the weekend after the Fourth of July, and it tends to be the weekend that people who have moved away come back for.  Usually for class reunions and such.  There is always a parade on Saturday, and a big community picnic in the park afterwards.  My parents had company that day, so we didn't do as much of the town events as we might otherwise have done.



We did tour the 1901 Victorian House Museum, which I will talk about in detail in another post.  Stay tuned.



I had so much fun wearing this dress!  I felt very patriotic, and it's really quite comfortable.  I want to make several more in different colors, now.  I also love that it's sort of casually glamorous.  It's easy to dress up or down.  Walking around the town in my hat and heels, I felt like a movie star.



I seriously love these shoes.  Can you tell?


If you want your own, they are the Loraine 1940s sandals by B.A.I.T. Footwear, and I got them from Royal Vintage Shoes.  

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

And Now For Something Completely Different...

I'm taking a break from tailcoats (and commissions in general, though I do have one I'm currently fabric-hunting for) and working on some stuff for ME!  Not costumes, not fancy gowns for special events, but real clothes that I can wear in my day-to-day life.  I have so many patterns and fabrics saved up with plans to make them into clothes for myself, but my sewing time so often gets filled with historical costumes for myself and others.  These more practical projects get put on the back burner, indefinitely.  

Well no more!  I have nearly two months in Iowa, where I am visiting my parents while Brian the Engineer is out to sea (Yes, he retired from the Navy, but his new civilian job also sends him out to sea for weeks at a time.  Go figure.) and I only brought with me the projects I wanted to work on:  

So, you know.  Just a few.
You may notice that several of the patterns I have with me are either true vintage, vintage reprints, or vintage-inspired.  As you can see from the bottom row, I have been on a huge 1940s kick lately, and want to add more Agent Carter flair to my everyday wardrobe.  If I have time, I'll get into the 50s and 60s, but right now this is what's calling to me:


Six patterns should be enough for an entire wardrobe, right?  This should give me:

  • five dresses
  • two skirts
  • two pair trousers
  • two jackets
  • at least three blouses

Add to that a couple of hats and three pairs of shoes that I already own - I think I'm in good shape!

So here's what I have planned, in no particular order:

Plaid wool suit consisting of jacket and skirt, with taupe charmeuse blouse
Chocolate brown gabardine suit of jacket and trousers, blouse fabric yet to be determined
Teal gabardine skirt and trousers with coordinating light teal blouses - I should have enough fabric for at least two.
Silky floral dress
Deep green crepe-back satin dress - this one I'm thinking I'll use the crepe side for the red part and the satin side for the black part in the image shown.  
Gee I wonder what their inspiration was?  :p
Bright blue gabardine dress with white collar - white fabric yet to be determined
Sheer white linen-look with red buttons and trim - very much like the pictured dress.  Will either need to line completely or make separate slip to wear underneath.
I have already finished one dress, which will be my next blog post:

Star-spangled halter dress - so cute and fun to wear!
I'm thinking a couple of the dress patterns can be adapted to make blouse patterns, as well.  I'll be on the lookout for nice blouse fabrics when I go fabric-hunting, but I could use some suggestions.  I like the feel of charmeuse, even if I hate working with it.  I'm thinking I might to to track down some peau de soie - is that the right fabric?  I've made quite a few dresses and skirts for myself, but blouses are rather new to me.

Friday, July 1, 2016

Commission - Bottle Green Tailcoat and Striped Satin Waistcoat

This will be a picture-heavy post!  My most recently-finished commission was for a green wool tailcoat with a velvet collar, and a satin waistcoat in a coordinating green and gold stripe.  My client requested fabric-covered buttons and hand-made buttonholes, so this commission took quite a bit longer than the other two.  I think the end result was worth it, though.

I do not have any photos of the customer wearing the garments this time, but I was able to get quite a few decent shots on a dress form at the Costume Design Center - my former employers were kind enough to let me borrow it for an afternoon.  I do not own a male dress form yet, but it's becoming increasingly clear that I need one!


The dress form seems to be larger than my customer at the midsection, which is why the lowest button on the waistcoat is straining slightly.  I also forgot to pull the sleeves of the shirt through the armholes, so that's adding extra bulk around the waist.



Having worked so hard on it, I wanted to get some detail shots.  I love how fabric-covered buttons look on a tailcoat:







The velvet collar really adds something, too.  I was thrilled to be able to match the color of the wool so perfectly:



I also took some photos of the waistcoat alone:



It's the little things, like pattern-matching on the welt pockets, that make me happy:


Hand-made buttons and buttonholes:


I matched the stripes of the buttons with the stripes of the ground fabric, as well:


If you'd like to see some in-progress shots, check out my Instagram.  #bottlegreentailcoat and #stripedsatinwaistcoat