Thursday, June 30, 2016

Commission - Indigo Wool Tailcoat

The next commission I completed was for a tailcoat only.  Although both clients requested dark blue wool for their fabrics, the two coats came out very differently.  I ended up using a heavier wool for the second coat, and because of that it made more sense to finish the edges with a blunt-cut treatment.  The wool is very well fulled and will not ravel, so I simply placed the wrong sides of the pieces together, sewed along the stitching line, and cut off the excess seam allowance.  It made for a very sharp finished look, without all of the bulk that turning in the seam allowances would have added.

My client requested fabric-covered buttons, which I love to make.  And this coat is double-breasted with nice wide lapels.  He made his own waistcoat, which he brought along to the final fitting for these photos:





Just for fun, here's a comparison between the two dark blue tailcoats:

 

 

What a difference fabric choice and design options can make!

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