The Gold Galleon Gown - Fabric Prep and Lining Construction

I'm going to try to keep a dress diary going for this project, which I very rarely do on this blog.  Usually I finish a garment, wear it, and then blog about it, with any in-progress photos I happened to remember to take at the time.  I'd like to do better.

I've already blogged about my mock-up.  Now it was time to cut out the real thing!  I started with the bodice lining, as the pattern instructed.  I had overlocked, washed and pressed the cotton lining of one of the curtains to use for the bodice lining.  I made my adjustments to the back piece according to the fit of my mock-up.  I angled the center back edge 1 1/4" away from the fold at the bottom, up to nothing at the top:

This gave me an extra 2 1/2" at the waist so I have room to grow.  I left the pattern piece aligned with the side edges when marking the boning channels, so it will still have the same potential for being brought in with the ties.

Because I had changed the angle of the center back fold, I stay-stitched the neckline edge and clipped in to the stitching at the center, so it would fold down smoothly:

I put the lining together just as I had made the mock-up, with the addition of the front facings.  I tried it on over my stays:

The stays are not yet finished - I still need to add the binding.

Brian the Engineer tied the laces in back to bring in the excess fabric at center back:

Now I could finally cut my silk!  Which is always a nerve-wracking endeavor.  So far, the most time-consuming part has been prepping the fabric.

The first thing I needed to do was remove the curtain hardware from my fabric.  I actually did this months ago.  The curtains were gathered at the top in bunches, with metal hooks for hanging on the curtain rod.  I took out the gathering stitches first.

The hooks were held in place by plastic threads:

They slid out quite easily:

Then I had to remove whatever these things are:

I'm sure there's a name for them, but I don't know what it is.

Then I needed to un-pick all of the edges and press out all of the creases from the hems.  I used my handy little spray bottle of vinegar to help release the creases and diminish the stitch marks:

I noticed that two of the six curtains were just the full width of the original fabric, selvedge to selvedge, but the other four had the selvedge only along one side and the other side trimmed away.  

Not sure why that is, but I set aside the two full-width ones to use for the petticoat.  This way I won't have to finish the seam allowances on the inside of the petticoat.  That will save some time.  

I also found that some of the curtains had a different selvedge edge than the others:  

I thought at first that the two different edges meant that they were woven in different widths, but actually the two that are full-width each have a different edge!  Weird.

Anyway, all the unpicking and pressing took forever.  But finally I could cut out the gown!

I noticed a bit of fading on one of the panels, but it's not terribly noticeable.

I started pinning from the top edge of each panel, as the bottom hems of some are slightly dirty from being used as actual curtains.  I had considered sending the fabric to a dry-cleaner, but I was impatient to begin.  I'll have plenty of fabric to play with without using the very lowest edges.  I did have to cut around the holes left behind from the plastic threads that had held the metal hooks in place, though:

I had to cut the pieces on my dining room table, as my cutting table in my sewing room is not large enough to accommodate most of the major pattern pieces.

In fact, the dining room table was barely large enough!

I cut everything but the sleeve flounces exactly as the pattern indicated.  I will cut the scalloped edges with my scalloped shears, once I get them sharpened.

From one panel I got the two front pieces, the sleeves, and the sleeve flounces.  From another I cut the side skirt extensions, the back neck piece, and the stomacher.  I cut two stomacher pieces rather than just one, as I imagine I'll make at least two for mix-and-match.  Two more panels got me the back pieces, and the bottom portions of all panels will be cut into strips for trim!

Just for fun, I laid out all of the pieces on the table after they were cut.  They wouldn't all fit without overlapping!

And I couldn't get the whole table in the photo frame, even standing on a chair.

At which point Jazz decided to join me, because clearly I needed "help."

Helper cat is helping.

Ok, time to get stitching!

HSM - Regency Bodiced Petticoat

My entry for the January Historical Sew Monthly challenge - Firsts & Lasts - is my new bodiced petticoat:

I made it at the beginning of this month to wear under my new Sheer Striped Gown. I even did it in the right order, making the petticoat first and fitting the gown over it!

Jazz decided to keep me company while I took pictures.

As discussed in the Sheer Striped Gown post, I made this one slightly different from my yellow bodiced petticoat, which features a flat skirt front and pleated skirt back. I gathered this skirt into the waistband the whole way around, as I knew I would need more room in the front for my growing baby bump.

I also cut the bodice a size larger, as I have definitely grown in that area! So this petticoat does not fit my dress form very well, but it fits me perfectly.

I used hooks and thread eyes to fasten the bodice in the back, instead of buttons and buttonholes. This had the virtue of being quicker to sew, and also makes for a smoother surface under the sheer dress in the back. My wonderful husband, Brian the Engineer, helped me with fitting the bodice to myself.

As before, I took up extra length in the skirt with tucks. 

The skirt itself is just one cut of the full width of my 108" wide cotton muslin, rather than the shaped panels that the pattern calls for. This way I didn't have to finish any long skirt seams on the inside, which take forever. I just used the selvedges.

Jazz also decided to inspect my work.

She seems to approve.

The Challenge:  Firsts & Lasts

Material:  108" wide cotton muslin

Pattern:  La Mode Bagatelle

Year:  1805ish

Notions:  cotton bias tape, cotton twill tape, reed boning, metal hooks

How historically accurate is it?  Reasonably historically accurate as far as pattern and materials, but it's entirely machine-sewn. I'll give it 85%

Hours to complete:  Roughly 6

First worn:  January 9 for a photo shoot with the Sheer Striped Gown

Total cost:  I used approximately 2 yards of 108" wide cotton muslin from JoAnn's, which I believe is normally $9.99/yard - but I would have purchased it with at least a 50% off coupon, so call it $10. All notions came from the stash.

A Message from Jazz

Evidently my cat sat on the keyboard of my laptop while I had a blog post open.

Who, me?

Usually she just walks across and leaves short messages, but this one was so long I decided to give Jazz her own post to share her thoughts with my readers:

BCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCBCBCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC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Perhaps I shouldn't leave my laptop open on the couch...

The Demise of Quick and Dirty

Do you have an inner sewing nag?  You know, a little voice that grows stronger as your sewing skills evolve and expand, that never lets you regress to your previous level of knowledge?  It's terribly annoying.  I call mine Nellie the Nag.*

She won't let me sew anything "quick and dirty" anymore.  When I try to get away with it, she reminds me that I know the correct way to do things, and that I know it's better.

Typical conversations between me and Nellie the Nag:

Nellie:  "What are you doing?  Match up your pattern pieces to the grain lines!"
Me:  "But I just finished laying it out!  I don't wanna do it over."
Nellie:  "Do it anyway!"

Nellie:  "Press your seam allowances open!"
Me:  "But it's just a mock-up."
Nellie:  "Do it anyway!"

Nellie:  "Clip those curves!"
Me:  "Ugh.  I hate clipping curves!"
Nellie:  "Do it anyway!"

See a pattern here?  So bossy!

*I can't help it.  I, like Stan Lee and JK Rowling, love alliterative names.  :p

~~~ In somewhat related news ~~~

I know I've been rather delinquent on Year of Foundations posts, but that doesn't mean I haven't gotten anything done!  I have my stays all cut out and the layers are basted together:

And I made a rump!

Glamorous, no?

It's a very simple tube made from a scrap of quilting cotton that had the benefit of already being roughly the shape I wanted.  I pieced one end to make it longer, tapered the other end to match, and sandwiched twill tape ties into the seam at either end.  It's stuffed with a hunk of quilt batting which I rolled up and stuck inside with some difficulty.  I added more to the middle, as I want the bulk of the... well, bulk... to be at the back.

Here's how it looks in action, shown here on the dress form over my mock-stays:

So I officially have one foundation garment finished!  Whoo-hoo!  Other "Foundationers" as one of our participants christened us, have been much more productive these last couple months.  I'll do a round-up post soon, but in the meantime you can see what people have been doing on Facebook.

The main reason I've been lax at posting recently is that I've been consumed with a new project which I will also be posting about soon!  Here's a teaser:

And, just for fun, here's a pic of Jazz "helping" me with my project:

I guess the pins are a good back scratch?

My HSF UFO: The CAC

I could have chosen any number of half-started ventures for the Historical Sew Fortnightly Un-Finished Object Challenge, as I have several such projects lying around.  I went with the Curtain-Along cloak, which had been sitting folded in a box for months.

This photo makes me feel rich.  :)  

I already had the outer cloak cut out and sewn together, but for the sake of tidiness I had folded it up and put it back in the plastic pouch that the curtain panel originally came in.  In the meantime I gathered more fabric.  The red wool in the top left corner of the box is now the cloak lining, and the black and red velvets on the bottom will be made into a couple of muffs eventually.  I like to organize my fabric by project in these nice flat boxes I get from work.  Up until Saturday, this was as far as I had gotten on the cloak.

How Shall I Embroider My Yellow Shawl?

Edit - I originally unknowingly used a slur in this blog post, and I have since removed it. Over Thanksgiving I went back to Iowa to visit my parents, who were in the process of moving to a new house after almost 30 years.  Not surprisingly, I came back with many long-forgotten treasures from my childhood, and random fabric sources.  One such treasure was this 18 x 90" strip of yellow cotton:

I used this piece of fabric as a shawl, and it became a vital part of my dress-up wardrobe when I wanted to play "G******" with my younger sisters.  (The Hunchback of Notre Dame came out when I was 11, and I was fascinated by Esmerelda.)  It was never hemmed, just had a short fringe from where it had been torn along the grain to create the rectangle.

I have decided to incorporate this unassuming yellow shawl into my grown-up costume wardrobe, as well.  First it needs to be washed, as in the intervening years it has developed a few stains and acquired several black animal hairs - both from my old dog, Chewie, and my current cat, Jazz.

Maybe I shouldn't let her use a box of fabrics as a bed...

To prepare the fabric for washing, I have hemmed it by hand to prevent further fraying of the edges.  This has given me a chance to hone my hand-sewing skills, and I also think it gives a nicer edge than machine-sewing.

This photo - without flash - shows the truest color. 

Next I plan to hone my embroidery skills!  I want to make this shawl my Embellish project for the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge.  The deadline for this project is February 25, and I wanted to get a head start since embroidery is very time-consuming.  But first I need to decide what color(s) to embroider!

I was originally thinking a floral pattern similar to this, in red and green:

But now I'm leaning more towards all black embroidery for a more dramatic effect.  Maybe some leafy vines like this:

My plan is to focus the majority of the design along both short ends, with a smaller border running along one long edge.  I'm thinking it'll look something like this when I'm finished:

What do you think, oh blogosphere?  What color(s) and design should I choose?  Leave me a comment with your suggestions!